Balenciaga is entering a new chapter, with British-Jamaican designer Martine Rose appointed as the first woman to lead the French luxury fashion house in its 109-year history. Announced by parent company Kering on November 6, the appointment marks a significant shift for the Paris-based brand and a major milestone for women and Black designers in the global fashion industry.
Rose will officially assume the role on November 16, succeeding Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose departure was announced a day earlier. She will oversee both menswear and womenswear, bringing her distinctive approach to a house known for challenging fashion conventions.
For Rose, the appointment is also a return to familiar territory. She previously worked with Balenciaga as a menswear consultant under Demna from 2015 to 2018, contributing to the brand’s evolving oversized aesthetic. Now, she returns to shape its creative direction.
Born and raised in south London to a Jamaican father and British mother, Rose has built a reputation as one of the most influential voices in contemporary menswear. She launched her eponymous label in 2007 and became known for blending streetwear with references to British subcultures, including football, reggae and northern soul. Her designs often challenge traditional ideas of masculinity, proportion and tailoring.
Over the years, Rose’s work has attracted a high-profile following. Justin Bieber, Timothée Chalamet, Drake, Rihanna and Hailey Bieber are among the celebrities associated with her designs. Kendrick Lamar also commissioned a custom varsity jacket from Rose for his 2025 Super Bowl halftime performance, featuring the title of his song “Gloria.”
Her influence extends beyond her own label. Rose has reworked football shirts, helped bring oversized denim into the fashion spotlight and created a heeled interpretation of Nike’s Shox sneakers. In 2023, she collaborated with Nike on a genderless tailored collection and later became a guest creative director at Clarks, marking a notable first for the British footwear brand.
Rose is also recognised for the unconventional settings of her fashion presentations. Rather than relying solely on traditional runway venues, she has staged collections in a north London cul-de-sac, her daughter’s primary school and a former gay sauna in south London. These choices reflect her long-standing connection to community and the cultural spaces that inform her work.
Her appointment carries significance beyond the creative direction of a single fashion house. Rose becomes only the second Black woman to lead a major European luxury fashion house, following Grace Wales Bonner, who was named creative director of Hermès menswear in 2025. The move highlights a gradual, though still limited, shift in representation at the highest levels of luxury fashion.
Kering CEO Luca de Meo described Rose’s appointment as part of the group’s ambition to keep Balenciaga at the forefront of innovation, creativity and culture. The company, which also owns Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent, is undertaking a broader strategic overhaul as it seeks to strengthen its luxury portfolio.
Rose said she felt “a true privilege” to be appointed creative director of a house with an extraordinary heritage and fearless creative spirit. She added that she was committed to honouring Balenciaga’s legacy while creating its next chapter.
Founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga in 1917, the house has been shaped by a succession of influential designers. With Rose now set to lead its men’s and women’s collections, the fashion world will watch to see how her subculture-driven vision and unconventional sensibility translate into Balenciaga’s future.
